When firing a gun, the gunpowder in the bullet casing ignites, creating an immense amount of pressure. This pressure propels the bullet down the barrel of the gun, pushing the round at incredible speeds. When the bullet exits the barrel, the pressure is released and an extremely loud noise is produced.
What a suppressor does is provide a larger space for the pressure and hot gases to expand after exiting the barrel. The gases expand as they are heated when the gun fires, but the suppressor traps and slowly releases this gas, resulting in a much quieter shot.
Other aspects of a suppressor that help to mute sound include the science of heat transfer and metallurgy. A gun suppressor is, essentially, a metal tube with a series of internal partitions that trap and release hot gases after a gun fires. Suppressors can be produced from a variety of different metals, such as aluminum and Chromoly steel. There are two types of suppressor designs as well, which are baffle stack and monocore.
Baffle stack suppressors consist of a tube with a stack of cone-like baffles inside. These are designed with spaces in between each baffle where the gases expand after a gun fires. The tube is sealed with caps on the front and rear. Monocore suppressors are similar to baffle stacks but entail a solid cylinder of the baffle material. Multi-axis CNC machining is used to drill out gaps and holes in the bar stock, which is then placed into the suppressor tube.
The difference between monocore and baffle stacks is that baffle stacks consist of multiple separate baffles stacked together, whereas the monocore is a single piece of machined metal. Many gun enthusiasts enjoy shooting with a gun suppressor because of its many benefits. Not only does it mute the intense sound of a firing gun, but it also provides a thrilling, stealthy shooting experience. We have a variety of shooting packages that fit every group and budget, and a massive gun vault which you can choose from while shooting at The Range.
To learn more, contact our team today! Unload the weapon completely. Visually inspect the weapon to ensure that no live ammunition is present. Slide the suppressor onto the muzzle. Mark on the muzzle where the suppressor stops using a white wax marker. Apply metal bonding solution to the muzzle exterior up to your mark. Slide on the suppressor and twist until it tightens. Allow 24 hours for the bonding solution to cure completely and before test firing the weapon. A very slightly off-center but not touching situation is no big deal.
But if it is off-center and not touching but almost touching, then the risk increases. One thing you can try here is remove the suppressor, re-clean the threads and try again. Also, you can use a torque wrench or an open-end wrench and an educated arm to tighten the suppressor to its correct working torque. You might get lucky. You might find that there was some un-noticed bit of grit or left-behind Loctite that caused your suppressor to tilt slightly.
Also, you might find that the bearing shoulder has a slight high point, and when you tighten the suppressor it evens out, straightens up, and your suppressor now passes the test. In a rare instance, there might be a left-behind tool mark on the bearing shoulder, and carefully stoning this flush removes the suppressor tilt. Your suppressor tightens on with the alignment rod, centered. Then make sure it is torqued to the correct limit and plan for the next trip to the range.
The process here involves more steps because you are assembling more gear. As before, remove the old gear and clean the threads. Take the muzzle device your QD mount for your suppressor and hand-spin it onto the barrel, making sure it fits and comes to a proper stop.
The muzzle device must come all the way back to the bearing shoulder and tighten down properly, unless and this is important the designer intended it to stop on the crown of the barrel and not the bearing shoulder. If yours stops short of the bearing shoulder, you have some problem-solving to do. First, read the instructions again. Is it supposed to stop on the muzzle? Or the bearing shoulder? Is this the correct-caliber muzzle device? If everything checks out, spin the device off and take a quick measurement of the length of the threaded portion of your muzzle.
Then, phone the manufacturer. Explain the situation, and when they ask, you already know the length of the threaded portion of your barrel. Yours may be too long. Fair warning here: when you attach the suppressor to the hand-tight muzzle device, they may stay attached when you go to remove the suppressor. If this happens, stop. Find a wrench to hold the muzzle device in place while you remove the suppressor, as you proceed to the next step. With the muzzle device hand-tight and the suppressor correctly mounted on the muzzle device, use the alignment gauge to check clearance.
Follow the process above of observing and correcting any problems. If you have alignment problems, the solutions will be much the same as with the direct-thread mounting process, since you are threading the QD mount onto your barrel. Save my name and email to use for future comments. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
Forgot your password? Get help. Password recovery. Gun Digest. If you make a mistake mounting your new suppressor, you might not get a second chance. Putting the right one on correctly, and putting the right one on a compatible rifle, will avoid a busted suppressor, perhaps a broken rifle, and maybe even injuries to you or bystanders. While not overly complex, properly mounting a suppressor is important to get right.
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