Furthermore, females likely become reproductive only when they are in good physical condition. While a higher percentage of males seems to reproduce each year, it is likely that the majority of males also do not reproduce annually. O'Shea, ; Stafford, Boa constrictors generally breed during the dry season, usually from April to August, though the timing of the dry season varies across their range.
Gestation lasts for 5 to 8 months depending on local temperatures. The average litter has 25 young but can be anywhere from 10 to 64 young. Bertona and Chiaraviglio, ; Chiaraviglio, et al. Maternal investment in young is considerable and requires the mother to be in good physical condition.
Since young boa constrictors develop within the mother's body, they are able to develop in a thermoregulated, protected environment and they are provided with nutrients. Boa constrictor young are born fully developed and are independent within minutes of birth. Male reproductive investment is largely spent in finding mates. Andrade and Abe, ; O'Shea, ; Stafford, Boa constrictors are potentially long-lived, perhaps averaging around 20 years old.
Captive boas tend to live longer than wild ones, sometimes by as much as 10 to 15 years. Boa constrictors are solitary, associating with conspecifics only to mate.
However, Dominican populations which will occasionally den together. Boa constrictors are nocturnal or crepuscular, though they bask in the sun to warm themselves in cool weather. They periodically shed their skins more frequently in juveniles than adults.
A lubricating substance is produced under the old skin layer. When this occurs, the snake's eye can be seen to cloud up as this substance comes between its eye and the old eye-covering.
The cloudiness affects their vision and boas will often become inactive for several days until the shedding has completed and their vision is restored. During shedding, the skin splits over the snout and eventually peels back from the rest of the body. Boa constrictors are most often observed in trees or on the ground near streams and rivers. Bartlett and Bartlett, ; Chiaraviglio, et al. Boa constrictors defend territories that change over time. Territories may be abandoned if resources or conditions decline.
Like most snakes, boa constrictors rely on strong vomeronasal senses. Their tongues flick continuously, bringing odor molecules into contact with the chemosensory vomeronasal organ in the top of their mouths. In this manner, they constantly sense chemical cues in their enviornment. Boa constrictors have good vision, even into the ultraviolet spectrum. In addition, they can detect both vibrations in the ground and sound vibrations through the air through their jaw bones.
They do not have external ears. Unlike most boids , boa constrictors lack thermosensory pits. Mattison, ; O'Shea, ; Sillman, et al. Boa constrictors are carnivorous generalists. The main bulk of their diet consists of small mammals, including bats, and birds.
However, they will eat any animal they can capture and fit in their mouths. Boa constrictors capture prey through ambush hunting, although occasionally they actively hunt. They can rapidly strike at an animal that passes by a branch that they are suspended from, for example. They are non-venomous and prey is dispatched through constriction. Boa constrictors wrap their prey in the coils of their body and squeeze until the prey asphyxiates.
This is especially effective against mammals and birds whose warm-blooded metabolism demands oxygen at a rapid rate. Once dead, the prey is swallowed whole. Interestingly, if captive boa constrictors are presented with dead prey, they still constrict the food item before consuming it. It takes boa constrictors 4 to 6 days to fully digest a meal. When threatened, boa constrictors will bite to defend themselves.
Though there are few references to predation on boa constrictors in nature, they are certainly killed and consumed by numerous reptilian, avian, and mammalian predators. Young boas are especially vulnerable. O'Shea, ; Pough, et al. Boa constrictors are predators on birds and small mammals, including bats. They are important predators of rodents and opossums, especially, which can become pests in some areas and carry human diseases. Mattison, ; O'Shea, ; Stone and Holtzman, Boa constrictors are popular in the pet trade.
It is easy to obtain boa constrictors that have been captive bred for generations, increasing their affinity for humans. They are relatively undemanding pets, as long as their large adult size and space needs are accounted for. Proper levels of heat and humidity boas usually need a dry climate, otherwise their scales will develop rot need to be observed.
Boa constrictors can be fed dead mice and rats and only require food and defecate about once a week. Proper care should be observed in handling them, especially the larger varieties. Boa constrictors, whole or in parts, are also seen in local markets within their range, presumably as food or medicine. They are sometimes harvested for the skin trade. In some areas boas constrictors can play a large role in controlling populations of pest rodents and opossums Didelphidae.
Opossums in the tropics can be carriers for the human disease leishmaniasis, which is transferred by blood-feeding sand flies Psychodidae that parasitize the opossums.
Boa constrictor predation pressure may help to regulate opossum populations and decrease potential trasmission of leishmaniasis to humans. Bartlett and Bartlett, ; Mattison, ; O'Shea, Little negative impact on humans is known. Boa constrictors rarely, if ever, attack humans except in self-defense. Humans, even children, are far outside the range of prey size taken by boas. Boa constrictor bites are painful bure are unlikely to be dangerous as long as standard medical care is obtained.
Boa constrictors are not venomous. Large captive snakes must always be handled with extreme care, especially when being fed, as a hungry snake strikes and constricts in a largely automatic sequence of behaviors. Very large snakes should handled and fed only with more than one person present. Overcollection for the pet trade and needless direct persecution has had an impact on some B. Some populations have been hit harder than other, and various wild populations are now endangered, particularly those on offshore islands.
On the mainland, boa constrictors have been harvested for their skins, meat and body parts. Furthermore, habitat loss and road mortality has reduced populations.
Boas 2 years old and younger should be fed one appropriately sized rodent every seven to 10 days. Excessive feeding may lead to regurgitation, improper growth, and even premature death.
Once boas near adulthood, they will thrive while being fed every 10 to 14 days. If your snake does not kill its prey boas will not eat if they are not hungry or are kept under improper conditions , the rodent may bite or even kill your boa. Even if the boa does constrict its prey, the rodent may bite before it is killed. Never leave your boa unattended with live rodents. A water bowl is a necessity. This allows your boa a place to drink and helps provide the proper humidity for your boa.
The humidity in the cage should be 60 to 70 percent; use a hygrometer humidity gauge to track the percentage. Water must always be clean and should be changed as needed and the bowl cleaned. Some boa constrictors will defecate or urinate in the water, which must be cleaned immediately if this occurs. Be sure to scrub and rinse the bowl, using an antibacterial dish soap and hot water.
Be sure to rinse thoroughly, and run the water bowl through your dishwasher monthly if possible. Disposable forms of water bowls, such as deli cups, are another option. Young boas will often soak before or during a shed cycle. This aids in shedding their skin, but usually occurs only when proper cage humidity is not being met. A boa that is constantly in the water bowl usually indicates the humidity is too low, the temperature is too high, or the boa has mites.
Young boas will sometimes retain a small piece of shed skin there. If caught soon after the shed, this old skin is usually easy to remove by gently pulling the skin off. Always be careful when attempting this.
This skin retention does not necessarily mean you have husbandry issues. Sometimes the skin simply tears before the shed is removed completely. Shedding issues are usually a result of insufficient humidity.
A soak or two during the shed cycle will greatly help if you are experiencing low-humidity issues. Place a quarter-inch of warm water in an appropriately sized plastic container, and place your boa inside with a secure lid in place. This will keep the water warm and the humidity high. Do not place it directly over the belly heat or under a basking bulb.
A few holes in the lid or sides of the container will provide ventilation. Be sure to check on your boa regularly, as they will often defecate while soaking. Change the water and clean the container if this occurs.
At end of the shed cycle, remove the water and place a small towel in the container so your boa can rub on it to help shed its old skin. Many caging options are available for boas.
Aquariums can be used, but reptile-specific plastic enclosures made from high-quality plastics that maintain proper humidity are much more suitable for boas than anything else.
A rack system is something to consider should you advance into breeding boas, or if you plan to have many boas living with you. Custom enclosures are another option. Young boas have simple needs; a large, beautifully decorated cage is not the best choice for them. An appropriate first cage for a baby boa would be no larger than 30 inches long by 12 inches wide, in which it will feel very secure.
Naturally, as the young boa grows, a larger cage will be required. After birth the female should be put into a clean enclosure and given a half sized meal about a day later.
If the female will not eat, there may be a problem and you may want to get her to a vet. If you want to know the proper way to take care of brand new baby boas, and learn about successful ways to treat solidified yolk syndrome, check out the full care guide. If you are going to breed boas, you might consider buying a few specimins from Jeff.
They are unbelievable boas and he is great to work with. He also has some killer cages Boaphile Plastics that have seen thousands of successful babies born in them. I use them and they save me a lot of time and worry. Good luck with your boa breeding projects! If I missed anything or you have a successful litter to announce, please comment on this post.
December 23, at pm. Best breeding article I have read. Not complicated and right to the point, you cleared up alot of questions I had. First time breeding my boas this year. Thanks so much NINO. January 14, at pm. I agree with Nino, it is an exellent article. Simple, direct and comprehesible. Two years later still educating new breeders such as myself.
Thank you!!! November 19, at am. I agree and always say leave males in until complete interest has left him. Jeff knows his stuff and its well worth reading all his articles. Nice article. May 17, at am. My female dedicated what looked like 3 small ovas, they were round 2 were yellowish and the 3rd was clear like with what appeared to be little spots.
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